Friday, February 6, 2015

Asian shock in Sumatra



Indonesia - Sumatra, XI.2014

Arriving in Asia, especially in such God-forgotten place like Bandar Lampung, was like a jump into deep water. Again, why Bandar Lampung? Apparently flights Prague - Dubai - Jakarta - Bandar Lampung were significantly cheaper than just Prague - Dubai - Jakarta, Strange, isn't it? But I guess that's kind of the things you have to search for if you want to get cheaper flights - unusual solutions.

First shock was the heat striking after getting out of the plane. Tropical thirty degrees after air-conditioned aircraft, and after November Sofia and Prague made a nice contrast. Better from cold to warm, anyway. Airport itself is a small pavillion, few buildings with red roofs surrounded by palms, and looks more like houses on the side of a long and empty road used only for take-offs and landings.

Next shock as we got out of the airport was the noise. First experience with Indonesian traffic, which we've found the most dense and crazy in all the trip including Malaysia and Thailand. No rules, scooters everywhere, and crossing the street was like a struggle for survival... each and every time. Here's a short clip from Jakarta center, but believe me, even in small town like Bandar Lampung it was the same.




The tip for crossing streets was to find a local people and cross with them. As we got more advanced in this art the solution became to raise the hand in stopping gesture (or "down boy" gesture, as for the dog), and just cross hoping that all the vehicles will respect your right to live. Seemed to work, just there was always one more scooter charging every time.

Let me tell a bit about Sumatra itself. Before getting there I was excited as it is not much of a touristic destination - at least not as much as Java or Bali. One main road goes from south to north for over 2400 kilometers To give the scale it's a similar distance as from Madrid to Berlin or Rome to Stockholm... And in fact, it is not much of a touristic destination, finding English speaking people was not so easy to do at first, finding the tourist information center - impossible. There's always a solution, like the first taxi driver called his English speaking friend to translate on the phone the directions to the place - creative juices flow when there's money to be earned.

Still, we've been left by the driver in some bus station outside of the main city. Lucky to have GPS on tablet, we've started to walk towards something that was supposed to be center. Decided to enter a university expecting there will be some people knowing English, and indeed. We got welcome by the nicest professor of business management ever - and I know what I'm talking about since I've studied business management. He offered us water, invited to his office, and since his assistant was going to pick up someone in the center he offered us to drive with him. Just to the entrance of a hotel, where we could sleep over the jetlag from travel to the other side of the world.

As you can see, not many pictures from Bandar Lampung. Why? The town itself is not that spectacular and I had not much opportunities to catch anything worth photographing. But the story continues, as things were happening.






Next shock was the reaction of the locals to the foreigners. As we were walking down the streets people were waving, shouting "Mister, mister, hello!" and even stopping the cars to open the windows and greet us. At least when we were walking together, because when I was going out alone no greetings have welcomed me... strange, as I look definitely more foreign than Dani, with my blonde hair and pale carnation. Later on we understood that this kind of attention may have been brought on us by Dani's uncovered shoulders in a Muslim country - hypothesis that confirmed when put to test. The rate of "Mister, mister!" was going down with covering up shoulders, and disappeared with covered head.



Later on we met with Delta from Couchsurfing to talk about our Sumatra plans. And he literally destroyed every each one of them, telling us that the elephants in the Way Kambas National Park were just poor, chained, beaten up creatures. I didn't want to contribute to that, neither here, nor later in Thailand. He also told us that the transportation on Sumatra is really not newbie-friendly, and as we were extreme newbies in Asia, we started to think about changing the direction to Java. After meeting with some foreigners here and locals for an evening coffee we've decided finally that it is a right choice to postpone Sumatra for undisclosed future, and now get an easier Asian start somewhere more friendly.

Just before getting on a bus to Java we got our first scam (not counting overpaying for the taxi from airport). Going to a local restaurant, ordering nasi goreng, and getting not only the dish but plenty of side dishes. Wow, cool, great, that's nice - I've thought. Let's try everything just a bit, so we get the experience. And that was the point of the scam - even if from a small dish of fish you got one of them, you had to pay like for a whole dish. And I am sure the next customer would be served the exactly same ones, but uh, whatever. Instead of 30k rupias it cost 78k - so around 5 euro. Not much for a scam.




By the way, the woman on the photo (one behind Dani), was carefully counting the things we ate after the meal was finished. Guess it is serve-all-you-can and pay-what-you-eat kind of system.






We've left Sumatra in a really surprisingly convenient bus, with AC, blankets, some snack and water, heading for Jakarta overnight. Short visit, and now headed east - opposite to logical direction, as the flight back was from Bangkok, but hey - adventure, right? 


Thursday, January 22, 2015

Brewing up Prague



Czech Republic, XI-XII.2014

So after 19-hour drive from Sofia we arrived in Prague, the first stop on the journey to Asia. Why Prague, you ask? The answer is simple - to get cheap flight tickets sometimes it is necessary to add one destination more to the list. Surely it gets more expensive that way, but one more place to see and I'd heard that Prague is definitely worth paying a visit.

We've managed to contact a host from Couchsurfing, Tomas, so we've already knew where to go in the first place. And in front of his flat I've managed to celebrate that fact by dropping my tablet on the ground, losing it for most of the further trip. But sometimes great adventures start with some misfortune, don't they?

I've known Prague from: A. Lovely small paved streets. B. Lovely Charles Bridge over Vltava river. C. Lovely Czech beer. Maybe not a lot of information, but enough for the beginning. So lets tackle them in this order and later I will add some small things that I've found out about the capital of Czech Republic.


Lovely small paved streets



That's definitely a yes. The whole old city center and Mala Strana (Lesser Town) situated across the Charles Bridge is full of charming little streets, where you can enjoy getting lost and just sink into the atmosphere of this old town.

Behind one of the corners in Mala Strana (Velkopřevorské náměstí, to be precise) you can find a wall covered with colorful graffiti, a must-see for every hippie and Beatles fan - Lennon Wall. I guess few next pictures will tell more about it:












Going up to the castle, going down to the river, stopping for a beer and just drinking in the life of the city (and some pilsner, of course).


Charles Bridge



What can I say? Impressive due to it's beauty and size, a real masterpiece of engineering. Over half of kilometer of length that we've crossed several times during these two days. Necessary to visit both during the day and the night since it's becoming a wonderfully illuminated way to even better lit up castle.





One fun fact that I've discovered while writing this text: the construction of the bridge had been inaugurated by king Charles IV on 9th of July 1357 at 5:31 a.m. This date is supposed to be a palindrome consisting only odd numbers- 1 - 3 - 5 - 7 - 9 - 7 - 5 - 3 - 1. How much truth is in this explanation - judge for yourself.


Czech beer



Ah, Czech beer! Magnificent and cheap (relatively, in comparison to other prices) pilsner, but not only. You can get the most out of experiencing beer in Prague by going to Prague Beer Museum (Diouha 46) and ordering samples of your choosing. Museum is not really a museum but just a pub with a freaky and intriguing name. You won't get to know how the beer is made, you won't see any utensils from previous era... but damn, is the beer choice worth a visit all by itself!




After Tomas has finished his work we also went with him and his friends for few beers in two typical Czech pubs, more for locals, with hockey posters on the walls, cigarette smoke and old men inside, cheap cloth on wooden tables made from plywood, tasty sausages, and not so tasty fried cheese that I've ordered out of curiosity... while searching for new experiences you fail sometimes.

On the way back from Asia I haven't repeated this one mistake and actually all that we've ordered was delicious. Table full of beer-food in affordable prices! - sounds like an advertisement, but really, it was awesome.






Ok, so two other things that I've discovered as previously unknown about Prague, and very curious:




Thai massages - don't know why, but the city was crowded with Thai massage places. Got us in the mood before actually arriving in Asia, but after I've experienced one of those in Chiang Mai later on, I am looking differently now on these places of pain and suffering...

Second - segways, segways everywhere. Don't know why and what for, but really gave the impression of a futuristic tourism:



Altogether - Prague is a great place to visit. I've enjoyed it a lot while still having upcoming adventures in Asia in my mind. Stay tuned!



Sunday, October 12, 2014

Bergamo - not just an airport



Italy, XI.2012

It's 6 a.m. when severe cold air wakes me up from anyway frequently interrupted sleep. Or maybe it is not the coldness or sense of danger when sleeping without roof over the head, in the spot found fifteen minutes before laying down the head, about thirty meters from a park alley. Sense which protected me so far from falling in some more serious "accommodation trouble".

I get up from my lair made of newspapers under a tree. It was Natalia's idea - brilliant anyway, because my sleeping bag haven't got wet from the ground. The idea was the more ironic that free newspapers in Bergamo contain mostly advertisements of real estates... Maybe we don't have our four walls, but thanks to them we've had our own floor in a picturesque italian town.





This is how you get around when you've got only a small luggage in Wizzair, and that means no tent. We didn't manage to find any couch host in Bergamo and for renting any accommodation here we would pay as much as for the airplane ticket. Both ways.

Why do people put fences everywhere, once they get the right to do so? Previous night we've been looking for a place for our newspaper lair for a long time, slowly losing hope that we'd find anything. Everything closed, barred, padlocks, barriers, gates, even barbed wire. Excessive space room for them, and what harm could do two sleeping bags after all?




Bergamo - it is not just an airport on the way to Milano

I've heard about Bergamo in book written by Marzena Filipczak "Tanie latanie" ("Flying cheaply"), from where I got the impression it is more worth visiting than the famous city of Milano. I got the description of small cobblestone streets in the evening stuck in my mind. Nevertheless when we've bought the tickets, the main theme was "We're flying to Milano!". Rookie mistake.

Honestly, I have a thing for small towns where nothing is happening, at least on the surface. Where with one bus you can do a tour through the whole city, not getting lost in counting stops. Maybe this is why Bergamo became far more impressing destintion for me than Milano itself. Milano full of tourists, full of trash, noise and traffic. Bergamo offers something totally different.





Visitor is awaited by landscape of magnificent walls of Citta Alta, immediately pointing out where the strength of the city comes from. For building 6 kilometers of the city walls a big part of the town has been brought down, and the actual costs exceed the projected budget over twenty times. This kind of budget changes aren't to be found even in the projects funded by the European Union.

The city walls are surrounding a high hill, which you can climb by several small streets winding and turning among old italian buildings. You could get easily lost if it's not for one essential hint - always go upwards. So we;re going, always up, in several days getting to know almost every of numerous ways from the lower city.





On the top you can find a sleepy - at least in the beginning of November - square. Pigeons don't mind being a cliche element of the landscape, they're quite comfortable with this. A middle-aged man in classy coat stops to read newspaper. On the other side of the square a young boy kneels, takes out his guitar from the case. I just love "wasting" hours watching the slow rhythm of people slowly flowing through the arteries and heart of the city. Bergamo is perfect for this purpose.




What to eat

Pizza, of course. In Bergamo I've tasted the best pizza in my life, nothing like the ones served in Poland. The amount and smoothness of the cheese cannot be compared with anything. Bought per kilo, we've paid a lot for our bum standards, but it was worth it.




What to drink 

Italy just as other southern countries, brings immediately a thought of wine. And that would be totally correct. But during my second visit in Bergamo my host, Andrea, showed me the other face of liquor face of Italy - amaro. A liquor made from herbs, deriving from mountain monasteries. And used as a remedy for everything, a glass after the meal to help digesting. A glass, or two.




Maybe it is caused by the contrast with a close and more famous neighbour - Milano. Maybe Bergamo is not so peaceful as it looks? I've spent around 8-9 days in total there, so what can I know. But for me it stays a highly recommended place to visit if you are around the Bergamo airport. Or northern Italy.


Practical information (spoiler alert):
- you can get from the airport to the city quite cheaply with public transportation. No shuttle stuff
- the delicious pizza I wrote about can be found on Via Gombito, west from Pizza Vecchia. Most probably you can spot the place by the people waiting in line in front of it
- quite good prices for amaro in Citta Alta can be found on the north end of Via Salvecchio
- tourist information can be found by the railway and bus station, behind McDonald's
- wifi in whole northern Italy is some creepy joke. Even for getting the free one (McDonald's) you have to register with phone number. Italian one.
- cheap connections to the mountains - Orobie or Lecco (mountains + awesome lake)
- there is baggage deposit close to the airport in the shopping mall.
- tickets to Milano (if you have to go...) are around 5 euro, not much difference between bus and train



Sunday, October 5, 2014

Gothic wonder - Malbork castle




Poland IX.2014

While I was showing the beauty of Pomeranian region to Dani, one of the first things that came to my mind was the capital of Teutonic Order, magnificent Malbork castle. One of the largest castles in the world (some sources claim the largest) certainly makes a visitor look with respect on it's high towers, thick walls and the architectural genius standing behind this enormous structure.

But first things first, so a little background story. I realised that this trip to Malbork was actually also following the steps of Teutonic Order after it has been thrown out of Siebenburgen / Transylvania region - you can read about it in my text about Sighisoara. So in 1226 Teutonic Order came to Pomerania, to fight the Holy War against one of the last pagans in Europe - Prussians. KInd like a northern crusade type of thing. And just like in Transylvania, they've built numerous castles and new cities, and raised their flag with German eagle and black cross.


photo by Thomas Stegh

Malbork (Marienburg) castle was at first one of the many fortresses raised to defend the land of the Order. But in the beginning of the 14th century the Great Master moved their capital here, and the castle has been expanded. In today's form it is actually three semi-separate structures: the Low castle, where all the craftsmen's workshops where located. The Middle castle with the everyday facilities for the Knights - infirmary, summer and winter dining room, Grand Masters' Palace, Grand Refectory for the feasts... And the High castle, the last resort of defence, with the biggest and most prestigious chapel inside. All three castles are separated - in case one gets to the hands of the enemy, the other can still be defended. That's a part of the reason why Malbork has never been conquered with a direct attack.

The passage from Middle to High castle - high, thick walls, drawbridge and moat


Going through all of this with a guide took as three-four hours, not counting climbing on the highest tower.


View on the Middle Castle from the highest tower

Nogat river


Castle lays on the bank of Nogat river. Teutonic Order gained big part of it's wealth from controlling the rivers and taking toll from every tradesman sending his goods towards Baltic harbours like Gdańsk.

As in many cases - wealth and power lead to corruption. After defeating Prussians Teutonic Order had to keep justifying its existence by fighting other threats to Catholic Church. Their enemy of choice became Lithuania and christian Poland. Many of the knights had doubts if it's a rightful thing for a Catholic Order, an armed arm of the Church, to stand against other christians... But the decay has already began. Defeated in the battle of Grunwald and later in Thirteen Years' War, the castle fell finally into Polish hands. But it wasn't conquered, oh no - the walls are too high and moats too deep. The Order became ruined financially because of their wars, and people of Gdańsk bought the castle from Bohemian mercenaries, which were not paid by the Teutonic Knights.


View on the High castle from the courtyard of the Middle castle


Over the 18th century and during World War II the castle has been damaged to a great extent. So much that until the late 50s Polish authorities planned to dismantle the ruins, but finally the decision about reconstruction has been made.


Malbork castle after World War II


To this day some important facilities in the castle are completely ruined - like the church of Saint Mary. Luckily the Castle Museum got a grant this year for reconstruction of the church. So we were one of the last to see it demolished as on the following photos:





Tickets are not so cheap (around 10 euro per person + additional ticket for the tower), but is definitely worth the price. Maybe just watch out for the light & sound show, as it is more like a narrated story, only in Polish. Dani was highly disappointed though I tried to translate as much as possible.

To conclude - Malbork castle is on the list of "7 wonders of Poland" and that is well deserved place. If you are anywhere around Pomerania region give it a shot and you won't regret!


Sunday, September 7, 2014

Svydovets & Chornohora in pictures

Ukraine, V.2012

This time less words, more pictures. Not that there ae\re no stories from there, but I wanted to give justice to these mountains without interrupting the visual narration with where we've went, what we've eaten or where we've camped. Let's just say Svydovets in the beginning of May was pretty empty and feeding our eyes with this strange mixture of hot sunny weather and snow laying here and there. Chornohora was more crowded, especially with fellow Polish people as it was long weekend and these mountains seem to be a popular destination.

On both ridges water is important (like on every ridge), but you can get some mineral water from a "wild spring" in Kvasi. Just find an old man by the shop near the railroad tracks... He will point the way :)

Enjoy!



 View on Svydovets from Yasinya


 Yasinya






 20-25 degress and snow





















View on Kvasi 


View on Kvasi



On the top of Petros (2020m)


On the top of Petros (2020m)


On the top of Petros (2020m)